Hand Sewn Hats

Geo. Franks, Hatter offers hand crafted, round blocked historical hats in wool felt and fur felt. All patterns are documented. All methods and materials are correct to the period. All sewing is by hand. We specialize in cocked hats but also offer a variety of other felt hats styles 1700 - 1872. Our hats are made by the hatter himself in his shop in the USA. Each hat has a hand sewn linen liner that is adjustable unless another style of liner is specified. These hats have order numbers "HS". Our round blocked, hand sewn hats take a minimum of 60 to 90 days from order to ship. Hat orders can be expedited for an expedite fee. Please inquire if you need your hat in less than that timeframe.

 We no longer offer a line of "machine sewn' hats.                                                   

We offer a variety of both hand sewn and also machine sewn hats not listed on this site. If you have a historical hat need and you do not see what you want here, please contact us. If it is 1600 - 1872 and is wool or fur felt, we can probably recreate the hat you want.

                                                                                                    Restoration Services

We clean, reblock, reline, restiffen, retrim and recock wool and fur felt recreated historical hats made by us - or by other historical hatters.  Contact us with your needs and we will get back to you with a quote including both price and time. We are not antique fabric restoration experts and do not work on antique hats - only reproductions.

                                                                                       Helpful Hat Terminology

Binding: worsted wool, linen, silk or metallic lace sewn to the edge of the brim.

Cockade: an insignia made of linen, leather, horsehair, silk or other material (even paper). Generally worn as a rectangular, bow(s) or rosette.

Cockade button: a pewter, brass, silver or cloth covered button holding the cockade loop or cockade (or both) in place.

Cockade loop: lace, cord or other material of worsted wool, mohair, silk or metallic lace extending from the edge of the brim to a button below it. Holds cockade in place or worn without a cockade.

Fantail: wool or fur felt hat with only the back part of the brim cocked up.

Lace: 1/4" to 1 1/2" wide worsted wool, mohair, silk or metallic ribbon used for loopings, cockade loop and/or binding on the edge of the brim.

Lining: Linen, silk or other material sewn between the inside of the hat crown and the wearer's head.

Loopings or loops: lace, cord or other material of worsted wool, mohair, silk or metallic lace used to hold the brim of the hat against the crown (cocked up). Usually but not always in pairs.

Nivernois: hat with high front brim cocked up, narrow sides (+/- 3") and a tall rear brim or fantail.

Oval blocked: inside of hat crown oval oblong in shape. Not mastered until 19th century. 18th century hats were round blocked.

Ramillies: hat with a moderate front cocked up, slightly wider (or the same dimension) sides and a tall rear brim or fantail.

Round blocked: inside of hat crown totally round in shape. Proper for 18th century hand crafted hats. Mold to the shape of the wearer's head over time.

Other questions? Contact us! Email cockedhats@gmail.com or Phone 301-379-0330